The eldest daughter, a
girl of fourteen, lost her hat. I had a new silk handkerchief packed
amongst my things, and offered it to her. She accepted it and bound it
round her hair. Her name was Maria Kumelas. I saw for the first time an
absolutely pure Greek profile, such as I had been acquainted with
hitherto only from statues. One perfect, uninterrupted line ran from the
tip of her nose to her hair.
XXXII.
I went for excursions into Savoy, ascended La Grande Saleve on donkey-
back, and from the top looked down at the full length of the Leman.
I drove to the valley of Chamounix, sixty-eight miles, in a diligence
and four; about every other hour we had relays of horses and a new
driver. Whenever possible, we went at a rattling galop. Half-way I heard
the first Italian. It was only the word _quattro_; but it filled me
with delight. Above the high, wooded mountains, the bare rock projected
out of the earth, at the very top. The wide slopes up which the wood
ascended, until it looked like moss on stone, afforded a view miles in
extent. The river Arve, twisting itself in curves, was frequently
spanned by the roadway; it was of a greyish white, and very rapid, but
ugly. Splendid wooden bridges were thrown over it, with abysms on both
sides. Midway, after having for some time been hidden behind the
mountains, Mont Blanc suddenly appeared in its gleaming splendour,
positively tiring and paining the eye.
Pages:
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469