I
consented to the arrangement on En-Noor's writing a letter to her
Majesty's Government, promising protection to British travellers for the
future; and thus ended this new, and I may say, flagrant series of
exactions. Possibly, had I been alone, I might have been able to hold
out longer and more successfully; but it is somewhat embarrassing to act
with persons who share in your councils without sharing in your
responsibility, and who naturally seek the shortest and easiest method
of getting over all difficulties. The conclusion of the arrangement had
a tranquillising effect upon our encampment, especially on my worthy
German colleagues.
The people have complained to En-Noor that we are "writing the country."
This is an old complaint, and pervades all Northern Africa and the
Desert, "that the Christians come first to write a country, and
afterwards invade or capture it." Travellers, therefore, especially when
they venture to use the pen in public, are looked upon as spies, which
may in part account for the rough treatment they sometimes receive.
Every place has certain things especially in demand. Here nothing goes
down but white calico and very small looking-glasses, which shut up in
boxes. With these we purchase the greater part of our provisions. There
is a little cotton-money about. Our encampment sometimes resembles a
market. The people are curious to observe every action which differs
from theirs.
Pages:
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309