Mr.
Gagliuffi had come out to meet me; but having taken a different gate we
crossed, and I arrived on my camel at his house, and found it empty. My
veil being down in the streets I was recognised by no one. The acting
Governor had arranged to meet me with twenty horsemen, but I had taken
them all quite unawares. The letters forwarded requesting us to make a
halt in the suburbs, and then advance slowly in "holiday costume," for
the sake of effect, had not reached me. However, they had hoisted the
Ottoman flag on the castle, in honour of our expected arrival,--a
compliment that had not before been paid to strangers, and one never
offered at Tripoli.
Our German friends arrived shortly afterwards, and we all had a very
hospitable reception from Mr. Gagliuffi, with whom we lodged. A few
calls were made upon us in the evening, but we were glad enough to seek
our beds. Next day the chief people of the city, the Kady and other
dignitaries, began early to visit us. When we had exchanged compliments
with them, we went in full European dress to wait on the acting Pasha.
We found him to be a very quiet, unassuming man, who gave us a most kind
and gentlemanlike reception, equal to anything of the kind of Tripoli.
He is a Turk, and recognised me as having been before at Mourzuk. We had
coffee, pipes, and sherbet made of oranges. Afterwards we visited the
Treasurer, who also gave us coffee, and was very civil; and finally
called upon the brother of the Governor of Ghat, who was writing letters
for us to-day.
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