As yet we have
never attained a level of more than 2500 feet above the level of the
sea. Water must exist underground, if we may argue from the presence of
the aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the line of route, amongst
the hills, there are wells and Arab tents. The presence of Roman remains
reminds us that the country has seen more prosperous times. We encamped
on the 11th in a wady, overlooked by the ruins of a mausoleum, which had
assumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some Berber letters were
carved upon its walls; probably by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabited
the district.
One of our blacks this day killed a lefa, the most dangerous species of
snake; and several thobs or lizards were caught. The greyhound of the
Fezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it procured us a gazelle; but
with these exceptions were seen only ground-larks, and what we call in
Lincolnshire water-wagtails.
It is worth mentioning that at this place our chaouch sprained his
ankle, and Dr. Overweg applied spirits of camphor as lotion. This
terrible fellow, this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timid
mortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by his slight accident;
and for the first time since the caravan was blessed with his presence
did he remain tranquil, breathing out from time to time a soft
complaint. In the course of the day he had contrived to make himself
particularly disagreeable.
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